A Taste of Paris in Auckland: Origine French Restaurant Review
Image: Origine
Suggest a cookie-cutter mall restaurant to me and you’ll be cut off immediately. So when my boss told me I had to review Origine, I will admit I had some reservations.
But Commercial Bay is not churning out low-rent, run-of-the-mill mall restaurants. Quite the opposite. It has quickly become one of the best dining precincts in the country.
Restaurants like Ahi, Gochu, Queens Rooftop & Wineshop, Advieh and Kemuri Hi-Fi have turned the precinct into one of the city’s most reliable places for a good meal and a stiff martini.
And then there’s Origine.
Image: Origine
And then there’s Origine.
Step through the doors and any lingering “mall restaurant” skepticism disappears immediately. The dining room opens out to views of Auckland Harbour through floor-to-ceiling louvre windows, while chandeliers hang overhead. A wall of Austral Venetian glass bricks nods to Paris’ iconic Maison de Verre.
It’s the type of setting that encourages you to settle in. Order a glass of wine. Maybe another. And suddenly what was meant to be a quick lunch with the girls turns into a lazy afternoon that feels surprisingly European.
Image: Origine Duck liver parfait
Upstairs, a mezzanine cocktail bar adds another layer to the experience, perfect for a pre-dinner aperitif or a final drink once dessert has been devoured.
Origine comes from chef Ben Bayly and his wife Cara, alongside Ahi co-owner Chris Martin and his French-born partner Lucile Fortuna.
Running the kitchen is executive chef Thibault Peniarbelle, a Toulouse-born chef whose résumé includes Auckland favourites like Cassia, and Apero Food and Wine.
The result is cooking that respects classic French technique while leaning heavily on New Zealand produce. Which is exactly what a modern brasserie should be doing.
A good French restaurant lives and dies by its starters. Bread, butter, pâté, something rich and slightly indulgent to open the evening. Origine clearly understands this.
We began the night with the baby baguette and cultured butter, because skipping fresh bread in a French restaurant would simply be bad manners. The crust crackles, the butter is gloriously salty, and suddenly you remember why the French treat baguettes like a national treasure. Because it is.
Next came the duck liver parfait, topped with mānuka honey and figs. Silky, decadent and exactly the sort of dish that demands a glass of Burgundy alongside it. It is rich without being overwhelming, the sweetness of the honey cutting neatly through the liver’s depth.
Image: Beef Bourguignon
My friend ordered the French onion soup, which she insisted was the dish to order. It arrives with a slow-cooked oxtail toastie and a bubbling cap of gratinated Comté. Savoury and unapologetically comforting, it’s the kind of dish that makes you forget where you are while chasing every last spoonful.
For mains, the beef bourguignon delivers everything you want from a French classic. The beef is meltingly tender, the red wine sauce deeply savoury and the buttery potato purée underneath holding everything together.
The wood-fired Chatham Island blue cod is lighter but equally impressive, served with sweetcorn, mussels and a bright sauce grenobloise that keeps the dish fresh and balanced.
Image: Petit Fours
And then there is dessert.
You do not order the tableside chocolate mousse at Origine. The mousse arrives when it is ready for you. A trolley appears beside the table and generous scoops are plated with quiet confidence. It is rich, nostalgic and exactly the kind of slightly dramatic dining moment we fully support.
I, unfortunately, chose the petit fours with an espresso. They were good, but as the mousse trolley rolled past I was ready to fight for a spoonful.
Final Verdict
Origine feels grown-up without being overly serious. The cooking draws heavily from French tradition while showcasing excellent New Zealand produce, and the harbour views give the whole experience a sense of occasion but it doesn’t feel stuffy or formal.
Is it the most experimental restaurant in Auckland? No. But sometimes what you really want is excellent bread, good wine and a beautifully executed French classic. Origine delivers exactly that.
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